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Chanel, Dior Show Loose Tops Over Clinging Suits

October 23, 1990

PARIS (AP) _ In summer ready-to-wear shows by a raft of big names from Chanel to Dior, loose jackets were emphasized over what has become the obligatory tight body stocking.

Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel put the house’s old image to rest in his show Monday. Except for piping, the quilt bag and pearls, Coco’s old standbys are gone. But Lagerfeld’s quilted bags are made of flashy leather, and he spruced the pearls up with colored beads.

He topped hot pants, minis, bicycle tights and leggings with every imaginable jacket, showing scoop necks or various lapels and making it all work in hot shades and black-and-white.

Lagerfeld found a new kind of piping in little squares - very attractive in a cream shade of yellow leather on a jacket worn with a circle-link gold belt and inevitable black stretch suit.

Looser jackets almost floated in shades of peach or red over tiny, knife- pleated skirts. And the loosening up was wonderful in silly tucked nightshirt tunics over different-shaded leggings.

Jean-Louis Scherrer again proved himself a master of wild-animal prints. His tiny shorts, duster-style coats, lean pants and fitted suits had the African imprint that he dressed up for evening wear in sequins.

The well-cut clothes had terrific cachet for all ages. Even the fitted glen plaid jacket with its unmatched black-and-white fish print crepe short skirt could be worn around town by anybody.

Gianfranco Ferre’s collection for Dior looked both body-hugging and loose, with floaty toppers over slim sheaths. Leading off with a line of ochre prints, Ferre put plenty of care into the collection, though it didn’t always look quite on the mark.

However, his billowy organza blouses were beautiful. And loose silky tunics with split sides in appealing shades of pink and apricot would be easy to wear at home, while the multicolored lame-and-brocade figured silks had a certain Oriental splendor.

Hanae Mori won praise for a young and sweet collection, starting with wide trapeze beach coats printed with Japanese motifs. Her leather suits revealing a bit of bosom with no blouse underneath were daring for the Japanese doyenne of French fashion.

Scottish-born Alistair Blair’s first ready-to-wear collection for the house of Balmain made little splash, though he showed a few good ideas.

Blair concentrated on classic casual looks in big pearl-buttoned tunics and shirtwaist-style jackets, sometimes with sleeves buttoned off or on.

Sonia Rykiel offered a calm for the stressed-out fashion psyche as she turned out her usual sophisticated line of wonderful knits and sophisticated trouser-suit outfits.

The favorite skirt line was a loose pullover and perhaps a tunic, fitted around the little skirts. All were hip-hugging and slightly bunched or draped.

Meanwhile, Kenzo celebrated the 20th year of his house Sunday as the first Japanese to set up shop here with a sensational show and party in the School of Fine Arts.

About halfway through the show, the stage was set up to look like a Neapolitan street scene - complete with guitarists, an ice-cream stand and cafe drinks for the models.

Peppy innovations for women featured swirly, long-skirted outfits worn with easy contrasting shirts, harking back to the late 1950s.

A party lasting until the wee hours of Monday morning numbered among its guests Paloma Picasso, model Ines de la Fressange on the arm of Christian Lacroix, Angelo Tarlazzi and Issey Miyake.

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