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Fun on Runways As Fall Ready-to-Wear Shows Get Under Way

March 15, 1990

PARIS (AP) _ Flowers, folklore and fun kept the runways peppy as fall ready-to-wear collections by Lolita Lempicka and Kenzo kicked off a marathon week of shows in the French capital.

Leg-lovers will adore the ever-present minis shown Wednesday, and those who like longer lengths for winter will see plenty. The color scene ranges from conservative to hot combinations.

Lempicka’s best ideas for attractive yuppies were in daytime wear. Her suits featured red-piped houndstooth-checked jackets and fitted boleros, or figure-hugging blazers with sheer black and white polka-dotted minis or easy long pants.

Combinations of light olive and cornflower blue or crimson and shocking pink came out in knits, light broadcloth or cashmere - mainly in good blazers with full skirts.

Lempicka also did a good job of dressing up suits with heavy guipure lace details and embroidered flower appliques.

Kenzo had a field day in his return to folklore, much of it a salute to old Russia with frog-buttoned, piped jackets over full skirts, booties and flowery babushkas.

Full ″moujik″ jersey pants, Siberian fake fur hats and Finnish or Norwegian-style long jacquard sweaters also added to the colorful scene.

His flowered soft corduroy full-skirted suits with flowered or solid jackets also added to the optimistic adaptations of Russian peasant clothes.

Japanese Ichiro Kimijima was another fan of the Russian styles, based on Czarist opulence. Under enormous fox toques, fur-hooded velvet or brocade jackets, some of them decollete with ornate gold lace trim, his models sashayed along in printed pleated full silk pants or long skirts flaring from the knee.

The house of Ricci got a rejuvenating shot in the arm as chief designer Gerard Pipart was assisted by Englishman Philip Waghorn.

Some of the new fun included sharp bicolored eye-fooling outfits like dresses cut to resemble suits with a blouse underneath.

″I think everybody likes some black and white, checks and plaids,″ said Waghorn, who put plenty of them in the small show at Ricci’s couture house.

The practical line had plenty of pants and the skirts were usually knee- revealing with some handsome longer looks, particularly in fitted maxi- coats with flared skirts.

Waghorn has worked for 16 years in Paris at Lanvin and with Marc Bohan at Dior and his expertise showed in the well-cut, sophisticated-but-young clothes.

New fabrics included soft jerseys with flecked weaves, as well as multicolored tweeds in the elegant suits.

Paco Rabanne went his own original way with a zippy, youthful collection based on the softest of jerseys. A typical mini combined hot shades or black with multicolored stripes and a checkerboard effect around hems, collars or cuffs.

His bright trapeze broadcloth coats with big collars had a youthful appeal in shades such as mint green, orange or blazing royal blue.

Slinky jerseys with low-slung belts and big cutouts, fuller models with chain-bit fasteners or diagonal zippers were lighthearted hints at Rabanne’s preference for heavy metal.

Soft fake furs combined nicely with caramel leather in some outfits, and lurex was used for silvery catsuits. Another festive touch was a fabric woven with metallic tinsel threads.

Emmanuelle Khanh’s offering was mainly in longer, leaner lines, with hooded bright coats, pleated long skirts, a lot of swing-clear dusters.

Her outstanding suits were neatly-fitted and black-piped, double-breasted models in shades such as bordeaux, hot coral, grey or royal purple.

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