AP NEWS

Review: Sushihana a solid balance of sushi and Japanese cooking

April 11, 2019

Note: This is an abbreviated version of the full Taste Test review, with a star rating based on multiple visits. See the complete version on our subscriber site ExpressNews.com.

The two-page menu at Sushihana tells a story beyond just what’s for dinner. A full 29 dishes on the front page, stretching from top to bottom, aren’t sushi. They’re tempura, dumplings, fried rice, a fancy rib-eye, cross-bone lamb chops, even chicken wings.

What does that say? It says that even a place dedicated to sushi since 2003 has to split the difference in a market still finding its sea legs. It’s almost a 50-50 trade.

One of Sushihana’s best hot-and-cold considerations centered around an unexpected grilled rib-eye, one of Sushihana’s best values at $29.95. On the cool side, well-cut pieces of fish-and-rice nigiri rivaled the steak’s simple but precise execution. Octopus with a firm bite, scallops in velvet overlays and lush, fatty salmon belly.

Fortunately at Sushihana’s intersection of hot and cold means you’re never far away from something that’s just right.

To read the full review, please visit our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com.

Mike Sutter is a food and drink reporter and restaurant critic in the San Antonio and Bexar County area. Read him on our free site, mySA.com, and on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com. | msutter@express-news.net | Twitter: @fedmanwalking