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Ungaro Styles a Big Hit

March 26, 1985

PARIS (AP) _ Ungaro’s sexy hourglass clothes in fabulous fabrics made a big hit today.

After a week of shows with next winter’s wear, buyers and reporters were feeling weary with an overkill of clothes. But they appreciated the Guy Laroche and Ungaro offerings, as well as the magnificent elegance of Valentino’s suits and coats shown on Monday night.

Ungaro’s strongest look was sharp cutaway jackets in bright jewel tones piped with black velvet.

These wide-lapeled looks were also used in short redingote coats. The sophisticated lady who wears these clothes with draped satin print blouses will add sheer or black opaque tights and high-heeled dark pumps or boots.

With leather pants or skirts and toques, the aura was often Russian. Otherwise, it was frequently ″Broadway baby″ stuff with wrapped jackets or puffy-shouldered boleros over very short velvet skirts. Another super skirt choice was the dark amethyst and emerald shades of paisley in a wrapped, buttoned and rather long skirt.

Combining expensive fabrics is Ungaro’s forte, and he didn’t disappoint, with jacquard silks, satin print blouses, panne velvets and sometimes Prince of Wales plaids.

Ungaro loves leather and his most striking jacket with big wing lapels was in a beautiful deep bronze tone. And a sure winner with the people who can afford his expensive clothes is the line of ivory white satin suits - all lengths of jacket over white jacquard silk pants.

The Guy Laroche show also pleased people who like to see some elegance without too much flashy detail. Guy Douvier designs this collection, and it harks back to classic Yves Saint Laurent, though it is not a stale imitation.

The Prince of Wales suits and long or short wide-caped coats were good- looking, as were the fitted evening clothes - sometimes with a draped or bowed bright taffeta skirt under a shirred black strapless blouse.

Valentino’s show, most of the audience agreed, was sheer elegance. His strong look was a wasp-waisted line in a shapely coat - good in slate blue with a hot pink lining to match the leather skirt underneath. He also used some quilted satin to great advantage for dressy evening wear.

Hot colors are a big Paris trend for next winter, and the furs shown by Dior before a dressy dinner party were often in siren colors - with a multicolored stained-glass pattern at the end to bring the house down. Some of the wrapped coats were black and based on Greta Garbo’s mysterious sexiness. Others were wild enough to please Alix Carrington or maybe Joan Collins herself.

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