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Men’s Wear For Women, Houndstooth Featured at Fashion Shows

April 9, 1992

NEW YORK (AP) _ Ralph Lauren unveiled a fall lineup of men’s wear for women Wednesday, Oscar de la Renta featured houndstooth in novel shapes and colors, and Adrienne Vittadini concentrated on her trademark basic separates.

Lauren’s army of models wore sharply tailored pinstriped and herringbone suits, tweed riding jackets and spread-collar shirts with French cuffs, along with ties and tie tacks, walking canes, bowlers, ascots, wingtip pumps, even fob chains and antique lorgnettes.

The look included Lauren’s feminized take on mannish suits, such as form- fitting slim black wool jodphurs, vests in unusual shades like violet and magenta, and slinky stretch cashmere chalk-striped long skirts.

He separated the girls from the boys with sexy molded jackets and vests that extended to dress lengths.

″This is about more than simply showing men’s wear or putting on a tie,″ Lauren said after the show. ″It’s the cut of the clothes, how they’re shaped, how they look on your body.″

De la Renta, who showed his collection last month in Paris, did a reprise for New York.

Big, bold houndstooth tweed in brights or black and white was the basic fare. Many of the outfits were cheerful combinations of green and turquoise, red and yellow, purple and gold.

De la Renta also paraded the grand ball gowns for which he is known, typically embroidered tops with metallic velour skirts.

″This is inaugural year, and people are going to be buying just this type of dress,″ said Susan Rolontz, vice president of the Tobe Report, a trend forecasting service in New York.

Vittadini’s fare included simple double-breasted blazers with gold buttons, cuffed trousers, silk chiffon blouses and stretchy poorboy tops, cast in black with red or blue plaid and teamed with matching gloves, opaque tights and sunglasses.

Sweaters, a Vittadini mainstay, were included as poorboy dresses, pullovers layered with matching knit scarves, and twin sweater sets, either ribbed or cable knit. Some of the sweaters have faux fur trim at the neck or cuffs.

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