Short, Chic and Shapely for Next Summer
Oct. 21, 1985
PARIS (AP) _ Chanel and Givenchy today showed they have gone short, chic and shapely for next summer. Paris ready-to-wear looked leg-baring, young and fun.
Karl Lagerfeld laid on a bold collection for Chanel, concentrating on black and white and bringing out dressy ''city shorts'' topped with long tunic tops, blazers, and snappy safari jackets - a favorite theme in these shows.
''I loved the show,'' said buyer Karen Homewood of Saks-Jannel in Chevy Chase, Md. ''The black evening wear was great, and these new lean looks are appreciated by our customers who work hard to stay in shape.''
The new and more shapely Chanel comes out in fitted jackets, one ''outre'' version in black leather.
But the various houndstooth check jackets, shorts or skirts are easy for even the most conservative dresser to wear.
Fitted waists and flared, pleated peplums are big in this collection, even in a taffeta evening version.
The sensible white-black looks in cardigans, boleros, and long tunic tops over knee-baring skirts or shorts were sometimes complemented by colors such as hot or soft pink.
Hubert de Givenchy also opted for a bouncy, short look, but had more color than Chanel.
Givenchy has plenty of traditional silk dresses with puffy sleeves, hemmed at the knee, and also showed minidresses in wildly flowered cottons.
Daniel Hechter took his audience on an ''Indian Ocean cruise,'' from dressy officers' suits in navy, gray or white gabardines or cottons, to casual jacquard pullovers for the crew.
For a party and ''stopover in Bombay,'' he offers Nehru suits in white ottoman with long jackets. Here again, the general skirt look is short.
Sonia Rykiel's Sunday night show emphasized leggy and lean lines, especially in the tiny striped minidresses or bicycle tights, sometimes gathered and bowed at one leg.
Sailor themes also come up at that show. The Rykiel trouser line is long and full as always, paired with gold-buttoned cardigans.
Her finale included 50 models in a chorus line wearing full taffeta gowns - all colors of the rainbow in front, black and bowed in back.