AP Correspondent John Leicester is covering the Tour de France, and he and other AP writers will be filing periodic reports on the race, the three-week cycling extravaganza that gets underway on Saturday.

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MONDAY, July 3, 5 p.m. local

ESCH-SUR-ALZETTE, Luxembourg, Salle Omnisports Henri Schmitz

Note the dateline _ a sports hall in Luxembourg. For those who imagine that covering the Tour de France is all glamour, think again. For the press corps, the Tour is really a tour of the sports halls, village halls and exhibition centers of France and its neighbors.

Often close to the finish line of each daily stage, they serve as press rooms for us hacks, with televisions to watch the race, tables for our laptops and freezers full of water to keep us hydrated in the intense heat. As sports centers go, this one's not bad. One of the worst I worked in was in the mountains last year. The press room was set up on an ice rink. We froze.

_ John Leicester

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MONDAY, July 3, 4 p.m. local

ESCH-SUR-ALZETTE, Luxembourg, Salle Omnisports Henri Schmitz

Lance Armstrong is no longer on the Tour, but the bad blood between him and France's leading sports newspaper, L'Equipe, runs as strong as ever.

As part of its extensive Tour coverage, L'Equipe runs a daily column on what's new with the 20 teams left in a race that lost two squads and its favorites to doping allegations even before it began.

But in its section on the Discovery Channel squad that Armstrong raced for, L'Equipe prints this: ``The American team does not want to communicate information on its riders to L'Equipe.''

This all goes back to the doping allegations that the newspaper printed last August, after Armstrong won his seventh Tour, under the shock headline ``The Armstrong Lie.''

It reported that six urine samples provided by Armstrong during the 1999 Tour, the first he won, tested positive for the banned red blood-cell booster EPO.

Armstrong, a frequent target of L'Equipe, vehemently denied the allegations, and a Dutch investigator appointed by the sport's governing body cleared the cyclist in a report in May.

All this reminds me of a slogan I saw on a T-shirt worn by a fan waiting outside Discovery's team bus the other day. It read, ``Lance 7, French Media 0.''

_ John Leicester

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SATURDAY, July 1, 3:15 p.m. local

STRASBOURG, France, the Palais des Congres

Spare a thought for cycling fans. They shell out big bucks to buy themselves the same fancy bikes as their sporting heroes, the same tight and colorful shirts, and they travel across countries to see them race. Then, word comes down that they might be doped. Cheats, not role models.

Cora Kneissl, 14, came home from school in tears Friday after the rider she's dreamed about for years, her fellow German and 1997 Tour de France winner Jan Ullrich, was kicked out of this year's race for suspected doping.

``I was very angry,'' she told me today as the Tour got underway without Ullrich, Italian Ivan Basso and other riders withdrawn by their teams because of suspected links to a doctor in Spain who allegedly helped athletes dope.

On her chest, above the neckline of her black dress, Kneissl had written the words ``Fans-Gegen-Doping.de'' in black ink. That is German for ``Fans against doping'' and the address of a Web site by cycling fans opposed to cheating.

But why is it that even though many fans suspect that doping is rife in the sport, they still turn out in droves? From talking to supporters who crowded around riders' team buses at the start, it seems that some would rather ignore the issue.

``It's been clear for a long time that everyone doped,'' said Wolfgang Hosterbach, an auto engineer who came from Stuttgart in Germany, favoring the Tour over the soccer World Cup that his country is hosting. He suggested that doping should be legalized to level the playing field. May the rider with the best doctor win.

But others said their patience was wearing thin and that this might be one scandal too many. ``It's frustrating, it's one thing after another,'' said Gary Bennett, who drove down from the north of England to be here. ``It puts you off a bit really.''

_ John Leicester

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FRIDAY, June 30, 6 p.m. local

STRASBOURG, France, the Palais des Congres

Lance Armstrong must be happy he's sitting this one out.

This Tour de France was meant to be all about finding a successor to the Texan who dominated the world's most glamorous cycling race for seven straight years and who is now retired.

Instead, it will be remembered for the major doping scandal that led to pre-race favorites Ivan Basso and Jan Ullrich being barred from the competition today, throwing the Tour into chaos.

The upside, if there is one, is that cycling looks to be taking the fight against doping seriously by going to such extraordinary lengths. After all, neither Ullrich nor Basso have been found guilty of a doping violation. Instead, their names popped up in a Spanish probe of a network that allegedly supplied riders and other athletes with banned drugs and doping know-how. Both riders say they were not linked to that network.

But the mere suspicion of involvement was enough to see them sent home under a cloud of disgrace.

Cycling had been salivating at the prospect of Basso and Ullrich fighting it out on French roads and mountains. Without them, will the Tour lose some of its appeal, or will fans applaud organizers' zero-tolerance of cheats?

Watch this space.

_ John Leicester