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Ferragamo reassembles the jacket for next summer

September 22, 2013

MILAN (AP) — Ferragamo has broken down women’s jackets to its parts, and reconstructed it in surprising ways.

No one can call these looks deconstructed: There is nothing avante garde or unfinished about them. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti’s womenswear collection for next summer, which previewed Sunday during Milan Fashion Week, was rigorously tailored and structured.

Take for example an outfit that from the back looks like a double-breasted cropped jacket with a short pleated skirt worn over trousers. It’s only from the front that it is clear that the short skirt is actually the bottom of the jacket, detached, forming the basis of a new design language.

Giornetti also experiments with lighter fabric, sheers and silks, a trend on the Milan runway this season. He creates bandeau tops, out of Ferragamo’s expertly crafted leather, that are worn beneath transparent shirts: modesty is retained. Satiny dresses are swept to one side into a cascade of pleats. Trench coats were so supple as to resemble dresses.

The softer looks, and neutral color palate, contrasted with python leather jackets with green, blue or pink accents.

Ferragamo’s trademark footwear included open-toe sandals, with some finishing at the knee in a hybrid boot for shorter skirts, fashioned out of such luxury materials as calfskin and python. Bags included fold-over purses and python clutches.

Doing its part to help revitalize Milan fashion week, Ferragamo earlier this week celebrated the reopening of its flagship store on Via Montenapoleone with actress Frida Pinto, supermodel Karolina Kurkova and actress Francesca Eastwood.

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