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Ferre designers retain architectural DNA

September 23, 2013

MILAN (AP) — Gianfranco Ferre’s architectural style continues to survive him.

Ferre fashion house design team Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron’s women’s styles for next summer, presented Monday, the last day of Milan Fashion Week, had a structural look that adhered closely to the design language developed by Ferre, who died in 2007.

Concentric seams gave structure to bust-, waist- and hemlines, while layered pockets and pleats gave a depth to the looks reminiscent of an Escher graphic.

Hemlines varied from mini to floor-length, often in the same garment, with either a short skirt layered under a draped overlay, or short shorts exposed beneath a wide slit. Maxi-obi belts that fold and twist define the looks.

Piaggi and Citron also played with soft, draping fabrics, creating statuesque looks with long, wide pants worn with a bandeau top.

The designers said in their notes that they were partly inspired by photographer Herb Ritts, whose advertising campaigns during Ferre’s lifetime helped define the fashion house.

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