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Oscar de la Renta Favors Ruffles, Velvet; Herrera Shows Avalanche of Pants

March 31, 1993

NEW YORK (AP) _ Oscar de la Renta favored velvet and ruffles, while Carolina Herrera showed an avalanche of pants during the clothing industry’s weeklong preview of fall fashions.

Retailers, reporters and socialites from around the world are in town to take a look at the new collections from the industry’s top designers.

Like many designers, de la Renta has created romantic looks, including black velvet, white satin ruffles, black lace details, bell sleeves, riding boots and velvet-trimmed riding jackets.

For the pragmatic, he offered monochromatic layered sweater dressing in somber tones of loden, burgundy, green and brown.

″The woman I dress today doesn’t dress only in Oscar,″ de la Renta said Tuesday. ″She dresses in The Gap as well. There are so many possibilities for a woman right now, and that’s what’s so great about fashion.″

For evening, de la Renta showed iridescent taffeta ball skirts with matching angora sweaters. There were also floaty layers of jewel-toned chiffon tunics over pants that wafted around the body.

Instead of holding her usual runway show, Herrera is presenting her fall collection for two weeks by appointment only at her Seventh Avenue showroom.

″I prefer to show in a personal way, and I’m a little tired of the big shows. It’s time to pare down, go more intimate,″ she said.

Amid the informal modeling, tea was served, and Herrera’s frisky miniature poodle, Alfonso, took in the cozy setting.

Herrera brought on the pants - slim, wide, flared, embroidered and sheer - paired with unconstructed gabardine jackets in navy, burgundy, slate and tobacco, in addition to her signature black and white.

Ruffles cascaded from blouse collars, cuffs and trouser hems, accentuating soft chiffons, satins, organzas, taffetas and velvets.

″They’re very feminine, romantic, fluid, soft materials,″ said Herrera. ″We had a season of very masculine looks, with suits and vests. Now there’s a little touch of femininity.″

New York designer Mark Eisen piled on layers, with wrap dresses and maxi- vests, over soft and loose silk trousers. Fabrics were featherweight silk chiffon, matte jersey and jacquard crepe.

Among others showing in New York this week were Bill Blass, Norma Kamali, Nicole Miller and Byron Lars.

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