AP NEWS

Review: Julian’s Pizzeria a hit with pizza, pasta, value in ’09

May 2, 2019

Note: This is an abbreviated version of the full Taste Test review, with a star rating based on multiple visits. See the complete version on our subscriber site ExpressNews.com.

Deck ovens are magnificent beasts. The broad steel boxes turn out some of the best pizza in the country.

Julian’s Italian Pizzeria & Kitchen is faithful to the church of the deck oven, and the pies coming from those ovens at the Alamo Heights location will strike familiar chords with fans of big city walkup pizza joints.

Julian’s has cultivated an identity beyond pizza since it opened on West Avenue in 2006, then expanded to the Sunset Ridge center in Alamo Heights in 2016. The deck ovens form the heart of that larger identity, because they’re the jumping-off point for baked lasagna and stromboli and fresh bread for an Italian sub that’s one of the best sandwiches in the city.

The red-checkered tablecloths, brick accents and checkerboard tile floors create a homey cafe environment for basic Italian food I can recommend for lunch crowds, families and Italian fans in search of a solid value.

Julian’s employs an unpretentious Italian formula that works. And it works so well that Julian’s is spreading its success with a third location this spring off Loop 1604 and Bulverde Road.

To read the full review, please visit our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com.

Mike Sutter is a food and drink reporter and restaurant critic in the San Antonio and Bexar County area. Read him on our free site, mySA.com, and on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com. | msutter@express-news.net | Twitter: @fedmanwalking